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Climbing roses create an attractive focal point in your landscape and add fragrance and color. Climbing roses vary in hardiness depending on variety, but many, such as the yellow Lady Banks' rose (Rosa banksiae 'Lutea'), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, do best in warm climates with lots of sunshine. If your climbing rose is producing healthy foliage and stems, but no flowers, it may be suffering from environmental stresses.
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For a red climbing rose, consider 'Demokracie' (Rosa 'Demokracie' Blaze Improved), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 9.
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Insufficient Light
Roses need at least six hours of direct sun every day. If your climbing rose is not getting enough sunlight, it still may produce leaves, but it will not have the energy to produce flowers. If shade is impossible to avoid, try to plant your climbing rose in a location where it receives morning sunlight. This ensures the foliage will dry and prevent fungal infections.
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Improper Fertilizer
Roses grown in sandy soil or soil without enough nutrients may produce green foliage, but won’t have enough energy to produce blooms. Too much nitrogen in the soil also can cause excessive green growth, but little or no flowers. The ideal nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium ratio for roses is 1-2-1. A monthly application of a high phosphorous fertilizer, such as 9-14-9, encourages blooming and provides adequate nutrients for your plant. Look for a fertilizer with those proportions and apply it to your rose as directed on the package label following the time periods and doses recommended by the manufacturer. Applications three to four times during the growing season are typical, beginning in the spring, when your plant is actively growing. Water your plant well the day before applying fertilizer, and again the day after fertilizing to prevent fertilizer burn.
Any form of fertilizer will work for roses, such as:
- Liquid fertilizers, which have an advantage of getting the nutrients to the roses' roots quickly.
- Solid fertilizers, in powder, granular or pellet forms, which need to be worked into the soil slightly and watered well.
- Slow-release fertilizers, which come as spikes to stick in the ground, in tablets or in granules. They typically work anywhere from 3 to 9 months.
- Combination fertilizers that include both nutrients and either insecticides or fungicides. These are useful if your roses are regularly plagued with infestations.
Drought Stress
Climbing roses that are drought stressed will stop flower production to conserve energy. They do best in loose, well-drained soil with about 1 to 2 inches of water per week. However, too much water also will stress your plant, so check the soil before watering. If it still is wet, don’t irrigate until the soil is dry to the touch. A heavy layer of organic mulch, such as 4 to 6 inches of compost or peat, improves the soil's water-holding capacity and provides nutrients as well.
Pruning Problems
Pruning thins out your plant and creates a strong framework. Prune only to remove dead stems, faded flowers, and weak growth for the first two to three years of growth. Once established, when you have several stems coming from a single lateral shoot, prune out all but two or three of the healthiest stems. Cut these back to two or three buds and remove the other stems entirely. This ensures your rose isn’t using too much energy and will be able to produce blooms. Climbing roses that only bloom once each year don’t require pruning in the spring, because they bloom on the previous year’s growth. If you have pruned this type of rose in the spring, you may not see blooms until the following year. Prune in late winter for repeat flowering varieties, and in the summer, immediately after flowering for once-flowering varieties.
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About the Author
Renee Miller began writing professionally in 2008, contributing to websites and the 'Community Press' newspaper. She is co-founder of On Fiction Writing, a website for writers. Miller holds a diploma in social services from Clarke College in Belleville, Ontario.
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